Backpacking, Colorado, Hiking, National Parks & Monuments, State Parks, Rocky Mountain National Park, United States

Rocky Mountain National Park CDT Loop: Day 4 -Along the Big Meadows

August 25, 2025

All good things must come to an end 😦 After three amazing days out in the wilds of Rocky Mountain National Park section hiking the Continental Divide Trail, it was time to finish out my loop with a nine mile jaunt back to my car at North Inlet Trailhead.

Trip itinerary (day discussed in this blog is italicized):

  • Day 1: North Inlet Trailhead to Pine Marten wilderness campsite
  • Day 2: Lakes Nokoni and Nanita
  • Day 3: Pine Marten wilderness campsite to Tonahutu Meadows wilderness campsite
  • Day 4: Tonahutu Meadows wilderness campsite to North Inlet Trailhead

The sound of bugling bull elk (one of my favorite sounds to hear!) greeting me after my alarm, I shook myself awake on my coldest morning yet of this trip. Learning my lesson about breakfast (mostly my inability to eat it sometimes), I fixed up some coffee with Breakfast Essentials and took to breaking down camp as some deer curiously watched. Taking down my tent is my last chore of breaking camp, and wouldn’t you know, it started raining as soon as that time came… oh heck, the tent was already soggy so not much harm done!

Two young deer standing in a forested area with trees and greenery around them.
The morning’s campsite visitors

The hike out to my car would probably be the least inspiring leg of my trip as the entire hike, aside from some scattered patches, was in the East Troublesome Fire burn scar. To make up for the uninspiring views, I would pass one waterfall, lose a ton of elevation, and pass thousands of baby pine trees. Not all was lost! At 7:10am I said goodbye to the Tonahutu Meadows wilderness campsite.

A close-up of a green plant with red berries in a grassy area among rocks and trees in a burned forest surroundings.
Back to the “berries zone,” reminiscent of my first day on trail
A close-up view of a young evergreen tree surrounded by rocky terrain and partially burned trees, set in a wilderness area.
…But look at the new trees!
A view of a hiking trail surrounded by regrowth after a forest fire, with blackened tree stumps and greenery emerging from the ground.
A massive patch of raspberries!
A trail winding through a burnt forest in Rocky Mountain National Park, with blackened tree trunks and patches of green grass growing underneath.
Through a slightly marshy area

Apparently I found my trail legs by this fourth day, and I cruised pretty steadily. The first major “sight” on this section was Granite Falls. Located in a heavily burned portion of the trail, the Tonahutu Creek cascades over granite, forming a decently sized waterfall. I’ve never met a waterfall I didn’t like, so I paused to capture some photos before continuing on.

A stream cascades over rocky terrain in a burned forest area, with blackened tree stumps in the background and low vegetation indicating regrowth under a cloudy sky.
Granite Falls… aptly named!
Close-up of a pink flowering plant growing in a post-wildfire landscape with charred trees and rocky ground in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Some fireweed hanging on in the late summer conditions
Close-up view of moss growing on a rock, showcasing various shades of green and textures in a natural setting.
Lovely moss pattern on this boulder!
Rocky Mountain trail with a rocky cliff on one side and charred tree trunks in the background, illustrating the aftermath of a forest fire.
Some unique geology
A view of a trail passing through a forest affected by a fire, featuring charred trees and new green pine saplings under a blue sky.
More baby trees, which became ones of my favorite things ever on this day
View of a burnt forest area with green grass and trees in Rocky Mountain National Park, showcasing the contrast between recovering vegetation and charred tree trunks.
It is amazing that there are still patches of living trees that were untouched by the fire in spots!
A scenic view of a stream flowing through a burn scar in Rocky Mountain National Park, surrounded by charred trees and lush green grass.
Tonahutu Creek

The rocky trail gave way to fairly cruise-y terrain and I just kept the miles ticking off. The trail made a hard turn into some unburned forest and started its very long journey along the edge of Big Meadows. The size of Big Meadows took me by surprise, as it is indeed very very very big! I was hoping I would see some wildlife, particularly moose or elk, but sadly I didn’t not. Big Meadows also marks the beginning of many PUDs, or “pointless ups and downs” of the trail, which I found to be slightly irritating, but not too troublesome.

A forested trail in Rocky Mountain National Park, featuring tall coniferous trees, some fallen logs, and a clear path leading through the greenery.
A patch of (mostly) living forest as I started skirting the side of Big Meadows
A landscape view of a burned forest in Rocky Mountain National Park, featuring blackened tree trunks standing amidst green grass and a cloudy sky.
Big Meadows through the burned trees.
Trail sign indicating distances to Onahu Creek, Flattop Mountain, and Bear Lake in a burned forest area.
Junction with the Onahu Creek Trail. I believe there are some wilderness campsites up this trail. Gotta love how someone added “Falls” to the signpost!
Expansive view of a grassy meadow surrounded by mountains, with a cloudy sky above, in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Finally found a nice open view of Big Meadows

I was thankful for a cloudy day on the cooler side, as the trail ends up being pretty exposed. I am also thankful I carried out two liters of water, as Tonahutu Creek ends up being pretty far from the trail at times, or in marshy areas that would make filtering water tough. I put my head down and just walked, with one break to eat a snack and take a nature break around the halfway mark.

A trail signpost showing directions to Granite Falls, Upper Tonahutu, and Lower Tonahutu, with burnt trees in the background after a wildfire.
Junction with the Green Mountain Trail, and saying goodbye to the actual, real, official CDT! Turns out the alternate is also signed as the CDT since so many people opt out of the loop.
A map of the Continental Divide Trail in Colorado, featuring various trail routes and points of interest.
Starting the orange (yellow?) line part of the CDT. Screenshot from the FarOut app, which was pretty useless overall on my section hike as most of the comments in regards to water sources were over a year old.
A scenic view of a grassy trail winding through a meadow, surrounded by charred tree stumps from a past wildfire, under a cloudy sky.
Still hiking along a very big meadow… no one is going to argue that Big Meadows is not correctly named!

While this was very much a “put the head down and hustle” type of hike, I enjoyed myself even though the scenery was a bit blah (so this is why Rocky Mountain National Park has a bad rap among CDT thru hikers…). My longest backpacking trip to date was wrapping up, and I felt peppy and strong. I had a lot of fears going into the trip, and to be ending on such a successful high note was not only a pleasant surprise, but a boost to my morale.

A well-defined hiking trail winding through a burned forest in Rocky Mountain National Park, with charred tree stumps on either side and patches of greenery and wildflowers peeking through.
Spying a lake in the distance, and signs of civilization!

Soon the sound of faint vehicular noise came through the trees, along with widen, improved trail conditions. While I was dreaming of some greasy fast food and the comfort of my car, I wasn’t quite sure I was ready to reenter the world. Four days of no cell service, blissfully unaware of all of *gestures wildly at everything*.

A rocky trail leading through a regeneration area in a forest with burnt tree stumps and new vegetation, under a cloudy sky.
Harbison Ditch crossing
A trail winding through a forest with burned trees on either side, showcasing new growth of green pine saplings in the foreground.
Fantastic sea of baby trees!!!
A landscape featuring newly grown green pine saplings among burnt tree trunks after a forest fire.
Seriously, how can this not make one smile?! Nature finds a way to keep on moving forward in spite of devastation.
A hiker in a bright green shirt and patterned cap stands next to a sign marking the Continental Divide Trail, with blackened tree trunks from a recent fire in the background.
Apparently, I’m still on the CDT!
A cluster of wildflowers with yellow centers and white petals growing on a dirt path amidst dry grass and twigs.
Trailside daisies
A hiker poses with a backpack and water bottle at North Inlet Trailhead, with a blue SUV parked nearby and trees in the background.
All done, and still smiling!! Pack weighed 27 pounds in the end, so I ate roughly five pounds?! I struggled with my appetite, so I definitely came home with food from the trip.

9.1 miles in just a bit over three and a half hours made me super happy (if I had left just a bit earlier, I so could’ve done a “10 before 10”!). I tossed my pack in my car, and changed into some fresher clothes as I caught my mom up on my plans for the day over the phone. Originally I was going to drive home to Cheyenne over Trail Ridge Road, but since my plans for Labor Day weekend had changed, I decided to head to Laramie to pick up my cat from my parents (who lovingly babysit him) before heading home. I made a stop at the Kauwuneeche Visitor Center for trinkets (who doesn’t need a stuffed pika to memorize such an awesome trip?), passport stamp, and to pick up my next backpacking permit from the wilderness office. Not wanting to spend a gazillion dollars on lunch in Grand Lake, I have no shame in admitting I swung by the McDonald’s in Granby for a Big Mac before hitting the stormy road north to Laramie.

I absolutely recommend this loop in Rocky Mountain National Park! It is one of the very few higher mileage options that doesn’t involve doing an out and back, and there are plenty of side quests to be had to alpine lakes to add miles. I found it a great way to test the body (and mind) on a decently committing loop at higher elevations, especially as I begin to plan a longer section hike of the CDT and Colorado Trail in the coming year. Sure, I had moments of grumbling, but overall my spirits remained incredibly high as I explored the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park for the first time ever.

Trip details (all data recorded on Garmin Enduro 3):

  • Mileage: 9.1 miles
  • Elevation gain: 404 feet
  • Time: 3 hours 38 minutes
  • Trail: CDT 1391.75-1396 & CDT Alt 4.4-0 / Tonahutu Trail
  • Start: Tonahutu Meadows wilderness campsite
  • End: North Inlet Trailhead

Read about Day 1 here, Day 2 here, and Day 3 here.

For information on obtaining wilderness camping permits in Rocky Mountain National Park, please visit my guide!

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