Western PA Road Trip – Part 4: Johnstown Flood National Memorial & Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site

May 2, 2026

Today would be the day… I finally would visit my 100th National Park Service unit! I ideally would have accomplished this in 2025, but two trips that would have landed me there didn’t happen: massive road trip to Alaska with Wrangell-St. Elias National Park as #100 (simply just fell through which was for the best) and road trip around New Mexico with Valles Caldera National Preserve as #100 (federal government shut down). Barring the world imploding in the next forty minutes, #100 would finally be happening!

I shuffled around my itinerary for this strip to purposely land at Johnstown Flood National Memorial as #100. Why, you may ask? Well, I’m a direct descendant of a survivor of the flood! #100 with a personal connection, what could be more special?

That’s right, my paternal great-grandfather, Julius Hofmann, survived the May 31, 1889, flood as a young child. His parents (my great-great-grandparents, Wilhelm Frederick & Jennie Hofmann, who immigrated from Germany just years before the flood), grandfather (my great-great-great-grandfather, Peter Hofmann), sister (Lena Hofmann), and other relatives all died in the flood. Julius and eight of his siblings survived, taken in by an orphanage. Julius later settled in Pittsford, Vermont, where he owned a bookstore (my mom has recounted memories to me of him sitting on the porch in a rocking chair, and how she has a copy of Heidi that came from his store).

Hoffmann family portrait featuring Aunt Mary, Uncle Julius, Aunt Jennie, Uncle Bill, Uncle Harry, and Clara (Mama) taken around 1936. — My great-grandfather, Julius, is second from the left. He is surrounded by his siblings.

A vintage black and white portrait of a man with a mustache and styled hair, wearing a suit and a tie. — My great-great-grandfather, my great-great-grandmother, and my great-great-great-grandfather all died in the flood. They immigrated from the German state of Hesse.

Black and white portrait of a woman with a bun hairstyle, wearing a blouse with a tie collar. — My great-great-grandfather, my great-great-grandmother, and my great-great-great-grandfather all died in the flood. They immigrated from the German state of Hesse.

The South Fork Dam failed on Friday, May 31, 1889, and unleashed 20,000,000 tons of water that devastated Johnstown, PA. The flood killed 2,209 people but it brought the nation and the world together to aid the “Johnstown sufferers.” The story of the Johnstown Flood reminds us all, “…that we must leave nothing undone for the preservation and protection of our brother men.”
National Park Service

A woman in an orange top and black pants stands next to a stone sign that reads 'Johnstown Flood National Memorial' with a blue sky and grassy area in the background. — #100!!!! Johnstown Flood National Memorial.

A scenic view of a landscape featuring two houses, one red and one white, surrounded by green grass and trees. In the background, rolling hills and a partly cloudy sky are visible. — The Unger Spring House and Unger House from the visitor center parking lot.

A scenic view of a red barn alongside a pathway, with an American flag waving in the foreground and green hills in the background, under a cloudy sky. — Johnstown Flood National Memorial Visitor Center

I arrived at the visitor center just as one of rangers were starting the park film, warning of its graphic content. I settled in for the thirty-five minute film, which focuses on the human side of the tragedy. I definitely agree it could scare children (and maybe adults), and it definitely got me pondering if my incredible fear of water was encoded into my genetics. I had listened to some podcast series in the past that discussed more of the ins-and-outs of the South Fork Dam failure, so I did not mind the more human-focus of the film.

After the film, I wandered the exhibits, which give more background on the what and how that the film skips over. I was able to locate my ancestors’ names on the panels of victims, though with the “Hoffman” spelling of their surname.

A list of names and addresses, likely from an old directory or census, showing various residents with associated streets. — Peter, Fred. W., and Jennie are my direct ancestors.

A historical bell from the Mineral Point Methodist Church displayed on a stand, with a sign detailing its significance as a relic from the 1889 flood. — Flood relics and photos of the utter destruction of Johnstown.

Three historical photographs displayed on a wall, depicting a valley with buildings and landscape signs of industrialization. — Flood relics and photos of the utter destruction of Johnstown.

After picking out my patch and postcard souvenirs (the western PA parks have not been a postcard jackpot, so spending was kept in check the entire trip), I chatted up the rangers, who were very excited and engaged in the fact I was a descendent of a survivor and also let out a cheer when I said it was my 100th unit. Ahhhhhh, my people! The ranger (I never caught her name, which I am sad about as she was fantastic and fabulous!) brought out the box of “secret stamps” for my passport, and Ranger M asked if I would be willing to share photos and stories of Julius and other family members with her through email. It was an awesome chat, and it made #100 that much more special to me!

A scenic landscape featuring rolling hills covered in lush greenery under a cloudy sky, with a winding road visible among the trees. — View of the failed South Fork Dam from the visitor center. The dam was earthen.

Leaving the visitor center, I excitedly called my mom with the news of the email I would be sending once I was home, and walked down to the Unger House for some quick photos. Then it was just a short bit in the car down to the parking lot for the path out to the north abutment of the dam.

A scenic view of rolling hills under a cloudy sky, with a railway track in the foreground and a bridge in the background. — View of the South Fork Dam from the north abutment parking area

A scenic view of a winding railway track through a green landscape, with a river flowing alongside and cloudy skies above. — Looking down on the South Fork of the Little Conemaugh River from the north abutment, and across to the south abutment.

The south abutment of the dam has a small hiking trail, picnic area, and restrooms, so I headed there next. Here is a short trail, Walks Through the Ruins, that leads down to the South Fork Little Conemaugh River and base of the south abutment of the South Fork Dam. Informational signs dot the path. I meandered on the trail, reading the signs, before climbing a steep staircase back to the car.

A landscape view featuring a meandering river, green hills, and trees, with cloudy skies overhead and red barns in the distance. — Standing on the south abutment looking across to the north abutment, and the visitor center and Unger House high up on the hill.

Sign for the Path of the Flood Trail at Johnstown Flood Memorial National Park, showing a gravel path leading through lush greenery. — Heading down on the Walk Through the Ruins. This also marks the start of the Path of the Flood Trail, which follows the flood path fourteen miles to Johnstown.

A tranquil river flowing through a green landscape with rocky banks and overcast skies. — On the banks of the South Fork Little Conemaugh River

A cluster of purple flowers with delicate petals growing in a natural setting. — Dame’s violet

A hillside covered with dry grass and sparse vegetation, featuring a few trees at the top and a cloudy sky above. — Looking up at the south abutment. I felt the size of the dam at this point.

A map highlighting a specific location marked with 'You Are Here,' surrounded by trees, pathways, and a river or water feature.

Winding wooden staircase leading through a forested area with trees and green foliage. — The stairs back to the parking area.

I am really happy I was able to visit this national memorial. I had heard the stories of the flood while growing up, and knew I was a descent, so it was neat to combine my love for NPS units with ancestry travel! While I did not visit the town of Johnstown itself (very little is left from pre-flood of course), I was fulfilled by my visit to the South Fork Dam.

Johnstown Flood activities wrapped up for the day, sights were turned towards my last NPS unit of this trip, Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site. Due to its proximity to Johnstown Flood, I headed to an outlying area to hike the four mile long trail to the Staple Bend Tunnel, the first railroad tunnel built in the U.S.

Informational sign for the Allegheny Portage Railroad, featuring details about the Staple Bend Tunnel, historical illustrations, and a map. — Obligatory trailhead photo for Staple Bend Tunnel

I’ll get into more about what the Allegheny Portage Railroad was when I talk about visiting the Summit Level area. The Staple Bend Tunnel is an outlying area of the national historic site. Under skies threatening rain, I set out on the two-mile walk along the old railroad route to the tunnel

Honestly, the hike out to the tunnel was unremarkable and not quite noteworthy, aside from seeing the old rocks that the rails were tied to along one portion. It is very flat and in a tree tunnel. But I was antsy for some movement and getting in lots of steps, so it was a good excuse for walking four miles.

A winding gravel path surrounded by lush green trees and foliage under a partly cloudy sky. — Tree tunnel. This is why I do not have much interest in hiking on the east coast…

A gravel road lined with rectangular stone blocks, surrounded by lush green trees and foliage on both sides. — Due to the abundance of stone in “Rocksylvania,” the rails were attached to stones.

The tunnel is currently closed due to rockfall, though there is a trail that detours around the tunnel so people can continue on. Once I reached the tunnel I was okay with snapping a few photos of the plainer side, and then turning around to do the tree tunnel all over again. I ended up running a few times as the skies looked like they would unleash on me at any moment (I did bring my rain gear along just in case).

A stone tunnel entrance surrounded by lush green trees, with signage indicating that the area is closed. — Behold, the Staple Bend Tunnel! This is the simpler side, the facade that is often photographed is the other side of the tunnel. I had other places to be, so this side would suffice!

Close-up of a weathered stone wall with patches of moss, small ferns, and green plants growing at its base.

Four miles wrapped up in 1 hour 7 minutes (I totally hustled!), I jumped back in the car as sleet and some snowflakes fell. After grabbing a quick lunch at McDonald’s, I arrived at the Summit Level Visitor Center of Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site.

A person in an orange hoodie smiling in front of the Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site sign, surrounded by trees. — And just like that, I have started on my next one hundred NPS units! #101 at Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site!

Okay, so what is this railroad?!

The first railroad to cross the Allegheny Mountains, the Allegheny Portage Railroad was the final piece of the Pennsylvania Main Line Canal. “The Portage” opened in 1834, marking the first time that there was one, direct route between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. All things to all people, it served merchants, passengers, slaves in pursuit of freedom, and soldiers from the Mexican War.
National Park Service

Exterior view of a stone building with a curved pathway, surrounded by green grass and trees under a cloudy sky. — The Summit Level Visitor Center is beautiful!

Well, just when I thought I was visiting a normal railroad, I poked around the visitor center and learned boats were put on railcars. Whatttt?? I had a realization I had NO idea about the railroad, and dived in to learn more.

Map of Pennsylvania highlighting Pittsburgh as the 'Gateway to the West', showing the main line of public works including the Allegheny Portage Railroad and various canals and railroads.

A display case featuring a model of a train designed to resemble a boat, showcasing its unique 'boats on wheels' concept, against a backdrop of a historical map. — Wait a minute, this is not a railroad like I am use to!

A model of an old passenger car from the Old Portage Railroad, featuring a horse-drawn carriage and a seated figure. The car is green with a red roof and has four wheels, displayed on a set of model railroad tracks. — Wait a minute, this is not a railroad like I am use to!

In the early 1800’s travel and trade was done by Conestoga wagons. This was the best means of transportation at that time. It took 23 days to get from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, when the dirt roads were in good condition.

In the mid-1820’s the state of New York built a canal system which let trade become more efficient. This was known as the Erie Canal. Pennsylvania’s business in trading relations dropped and plans began for building their own canal system. In February 1826 the Main Line of Public Works was authorized by the Pennsylvania legislature to begin the building of canals from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh. There was only one problem with the building of the canals, the Allegheny Mountains. How could a canal system be built through or over the mountains?

The first plan was to build a four mile tunnel through the bottom of the mountain, but this was found costly and unrealistic. Tunnel building was new and it was questionable if water could be kept in the tunnel. It was decided to build a railroad system of ten inclined planes, 5 ascending and 5 descending. This system was modeled after a similar system in England.

The railroad was equipped with ten inclined planes, five on each side of the mountain. At the head of each inclined plane were stationary engines, which moved endless ropes to pull the railroad cars up the mountain. This incline system was used because the locomotives of this time did not have the power to pull the cars up the steep mountains. Locomotives were used on the more level areas of the mountain. The Allegheny Portage Railroad was 36 miles in length connecting the Hollidaysburg Canal Basin with the basin at Johnstown where canals finished the Public Works system into Pittsburgh.
National Park Service

Okay, things are finally making a lot more sense!

A historic steam locomotive displayed indoors, surrounded by wooden railings and large windows showcasing the outdoor scenery. — A small steam locomotive

A vintage steam locomotive named 'Lafayette' displayed indoors, with a glass case containing a miniature model of an early train and informational text below. — A small steam locomotive

Visitor center explored and duties handled (souvenir patch and postcards acquired along with passport stamps!), I headed out to explore the area, hoping the rain would hold off, especially for the teens freezing in prom dresses taking photos! (It was a beautiful spot for photos, to be fair!). The path gently switchbacks down the hill towards Engine House No. 6. I reached a turn off for the trail to the Skew Arch Bridge, so I decided to head down there, thinking it would just be around the corner.

Signboard displaying a map and information about the Summit Level Historic Area and the Allegheny Portage Railroad, surrounded by green trees and grass. — Obligatory trailhead photo

Wooden walkway through a forest, with a railing and a ladder partially obscured by foliage. — Well, I mean, they solved the problem?!

A wooden informational sign for the Skew Arch Bridge Trail in a green forest, with a winding gravel path in the background. — Start of what I thought was a short walk to the Skew Arch Bridge. Turns out it was about a mile long roundtrip.

Well, it was a sloppy, muddy, steep half-mile trek, but I made it to the Skew Arch Bridge , conveniently next to the highway (so I could’ve driven…). I laughed at the absurdity of my adventures, snapped some photos, eyed the rain clouds, and headed back up the muddy hill.

A winding dirt path through a wooded area, bordered by trees and greenery, under an overcast sky. — The trail degrades…

A historic stone arch bridge with steps on the side, surrounded by grassy areas and trees under a cloudy sky. — The Skew Arch Bridge! It is pretty, and I’m glad it was preserved.

A historic stone arch bridge surrounded by greenery, with a nearby historical marker and a road in the background. — The Skew Arch Bridge! It is pretty, and I’m glad it was preserved.

Trail sign for the 6 to 10 Trail at the Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site, attached to a tree with peeling bark.

Back on level ground, I took to checking out the reconstructed Engine House No. 6 at the top of Incline 6. I found the giant ropes and pulley system pretty neat (considering I went into this thinking the site was all about a “normal” railroad, I guess it ended up being all neat!).

A large white barn with a peaked roof, featuring double doors and adjacent railroad tracks leading to the entrance, set against a cloudy sky and surrounded by greenery. — Incline 6 leading up to the reconstructed Engine House No. 6

An overhead view of a historical mechanical system featuring wooden beams, ropes, and pulleys, set in a rustic indoor environment. — Inside the engine house and the pulley system to help get the trains up the inclines. Steam locomotives of the time were not powerful enough to pull the trains, hence the engine houses.

A scenic view of a park featuring lush green grass, tall evergreen trees, and a pathway beside railway tracks. In the background, there is a historic stone building under a cloudy sky.

Next up was the first-floor of the Lemon House. Restored to its 1840s appearance, I wandered from room to room, feeling that eery old house feeling. Probably didn’t help that I was alone in the house, but the walls had stories…

Samuel and Jean Lemon were the proprietors of the Lemon House Tavern. Travelers on the Allegheny Portage Railroad would stop to get a drink, get something to eat, or just rest as their trains were being prepared for the rest of the journey on the Allegheny Portage Railroad.
National Park Service

Historic stone building with a grassy lawn and white picket fence, under a cloudy sky. — The Lemon House

A vintage room featuring patterned wallpaper, a red patterned carpet, a round dining table with a lace tablecloth, and a decorative lamp. A grand piano is present along with two windows providing natural light, and a portrait hanging on the wall. — First floor exhibits in the Lemon House. The fake food looked not too shabby!

A dining table set with various plates of food, including a portion of macaroni and cheese, green beans, and roast beef. In the background, cups and fruit are visible, all presented on a wooden table with a decorative tablecloth. — First floor exhibits in the Lemon House. The fake food looked not too shabby!

Framed portrait of George Washington seated in an ornate chair, dressed in formal attire, against a backdrop of draped fabric and a scenic view. — I shall end this blog series with this fancy portrait of George Washington

Sightseeing wrapped up, I wove my way through the prom photo-takers back to the car. I scribbled out some quick postcards, and then turned the car west. The grand western Pennsylvania road trip was coming to a finale, with just several hours of driving back to Pittsburgh airport left. Proud moment was successfully driving through downtown Pittsburgh – go me! I stayed near the airport in a hotel filled with youth hockey players and a lone rental mini van in the parking lot with Colorado plates. Five National Park Service units, two state parks, one UNESCO World Heritage Site, and two state highpoints… I declare this latest adventure a success!

One response to “Western PA Road Trip – Part 4: Johnstown Flood National Memorial & Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site”

thomasstigwikman

May 25, 2026 at 9:52 pm

That was a lot of interesting information and great photos. Congratulations on your 100th National Park Service unit! It is really terrible that the Johnstown, PA, flood killed 2,209 people. That is a very major disaster that I did not know about. Your adventures are incredible.

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