Colorado Hiked: American Lakes and Thunder Pass

I’m a creature of habit, and if I am going to drive two hours to hike I more often than not end up in Rocky Mountain National Park – specifically the entrances from Estes Park. Which is quite fine, though there is the hassle of timed entry reservations and crowds during the summer and fall. But finally I would be branching out and exploring an area I’ve had on my radar for years: American Lakes west of Cameron Pass. Same driving time from Cheyenne, but none of the national park hassle!

With a two hour drive ahead of me on quiet, two-lane roads, I departed Cheyenne early at 6:30am, excitement high to be exploring a brand new alpine area. The American Lakes, also confusingly called Michigan Lakes, sit within State Forest State Park, a Colorado state park. Because I had plans to continuing up to Thunder Pass, I would also briefly pass through Routt National Forest, with the boundary with State Forest State Park just past the lakes. Thunder Pass is on the boundary with Rocky Mountain National Park (whoops, I guess I’m still visiting my old favorite after all!). Three land management agencies in one hike! I had forgotten the trailhead, and majority of the hike, is within a state park so the fee booth took me by surprise – luckily I had enough cash to cover the fee and I was quickly on my way to the mostly empty trailhead.

With beautiful weather set for this final day of summer in 2024 (an apt day to hike in the Never Summer Mountains!), I headed out from the American Lakes Trailhead on a former access road. Most of this hike occurs in the forest, which is nice to have some shade as the day went on. Just a little over a mile in the trail intersects with the Michigan Ditch Trail at a signed junction. I continued straight, and the trail eventually narrowed to double track, then single track.

At two miles in, a series of switchbacks began. Though plentiful, they were long and kept the uphill grade very mild as I worked my way out of the trees. Just under an hour in, I finally heard my first sign of other humans. Though the trail would be much busier at American Lakes and on my way back to the car, the crowds were minimal and nothing compared to many other Front Range hiking locations.

After a mile of switchbacks, I broke free to treeline at 11,100 feet. Alpine environments are my forever favorite, and I was giddy to be seeing brand new mountains and lakes. I had several mountain summits on my short list that are in this area, including Lulu Mountain and Mount Richthofen. While I would not be achieving any summits during this hike, it was great to finally lay my eyes on some summit goals in person.

After hitting treeline, the grade reduces and it is easy walking to American Lakes, just a bit over a half-mile. While the lake was inviting, I focused on the hike over to Thunder Pass as my first objective. The trail continues a gentle climb up to the pass, which is on the saddle of Lulu Mountain (whose summit is gained by an off trail climb) and Static Peak. 4.3 miles after leaving my car I was on Thunder Pass at 11, 348 feet!

This mountain range is called the Never Summer Mountains, originating from the Arapaho word Ni-chebe-chii, which translates to “never no summer.” It is a small range in the Rocky Mountains, covering about 25 square miles. Most rocks in the Never Summer Mountains are younger than the surrounding mountains, thanks to being largely formed by volcanic processes 24-29 million years ago. The mountains we see today are the weathered remnants of large volcanoes. (Just another reason for me to fall in love with this area, I love me some volcanoes, even if only weathered remnants are left!)

After snapping some photos with the RMNP boundary sign and the scenery, I headed back to American Lakes. There is another lake beyond American Lakes, Snow Lake, that I was debating climbing up to as it sits under Static Peak and Nokhu Crags in stunning setting. I wound my way through a faint trail in the direction of Snow Lake, dodging backcountry campsites (which made me make a mental note this could be a great short backpacking trip without the hassle of obtaining permits half of a year in advance).

Sitting down to eat a snack, I decided I didn’t have it in me to ascend the steep scramble up to Snow Lake. Honestly, I was feeling really good on the hike, but was balancing that knowing I had a four mile hike out and wanted to stay feeling good (yay for living with MS now!). So I enjoyed my snack in the sun, snapping plenty of photos, before leaving this gorgeous piece of the planet behind to begin the hike back to the car.

There were significantly more people on the trail now as I headed back down. And I realized the trail was a lot steeper than I had thought on the climb up! But it was fast work back to the car, though of course I hit the point I tend to on every hike where I just want to get back.

Overall, this hike was 9.3 miles long, with 1,890 feet of elevation gain. I must’ve been feeling speedy, as it took me only 3 hours 48 minutes at what I thought was a casual pace!

This hidden gem of Colorado’s Front Range was well worth the two hours of driving. I know there is so much more to explore in the area, from hiking to backpacking to mountain summits. Time to break some hiking habits and branch out!

Details:
All Trails Link
Date Hiked: September 21, 2024
Trailhead: American Lakes
Total Mileage: 9.29 miles (Garmin Forerunner 255s)
Total Elevation Gain: 1,890 feet
Total Time Spent: 3 hours 48 minutes
Weather: Everything you would want from the last day of summer… sunny and pleasant!
Trail Conditions: Dry
Special Considerations: Most of this hike, and trailhead, is within State Forest State Park. Day use fee of $12 (2025) is required. Leashed dogs are allowed on the trail, but if hiking beyond Thunder Pass, no dogs are allowed as the trail crosses into Rocky Mountain National Park.