Two Girls Roving: Day 4 – Newhalem, Diablo Lake, and Baker Lake

Two Girls Roving: The tale of a 16 day, 3522 mile road trip to the Pacific Northwest in celebration of my friend’s college graduation! Follow along for all the shenanigans through thousands of miles, eight National Park Service units, night after night of camping, and even some coastal backpacking!

August 26, 2024

With a generous 12pm check out time at our campground, Janice and I had a slow morning with no early alarm, plenty of instant coffee, and a hashbrown and bacon breakfast. We had settled into a routine where I was the cook (shocking!) and Janice was the dishwasher, though on this day Janice decided my whole kitchen tote needed cleaned and organized as well. We learned bacon is quite the messy camping food with the grease, and learned to not let the grease cool in the pan.

Since the “To Know a Tree” and River Loop Trails passed by our campsite at Newhalem Creek Campground, we took advantage of our slow morning to meander down to the Skagit River. We’d end up walking a 1.5 mile loop, which was a great topping to an easy morning.

After tearing down camp and packing up the car, we stopped by the North Cascades Visitor Center, even though we had been the day before. Janice had a book about Pacific Northwest foliage on her mind, and I wasn’t about to deny her it! Turns out I’d end up buying four books myself, even though I bought several the day before. Luckily we discovered the glove box fit books perfectly so I could find a place to stash my new goodies.

I’m probably sounding like a broken record now with my reminiscing on how wildfires made a mess of our first few days in the North Cascades. Whelp, I’m not done! Originally we should’ve been waking up on the shores of Diablo Lake (thanks, Ruby Fire), and then driving up Cascade River Road to Mineral Park Campground for two nights (thanks, Pincer Two Fire). Alas, we woke up in the magical forest on the banks of the Skagit River, and would drive to our campground on the shores of Baker Lake for two nights. Not a bad alternative, though I really wanted to hike up to the privy at Sahale Arm for the most scenic pee of my life.

Janice and I had skipped a few stops the previous day, so before heading to Baker Lake we would backtrack to Diablo Lake, chasing some waterfalls along the way. First up would be Ladder Creek Falls outside of Newhalem. Located behind the Gorge Powerhouse, reaching this pretty waterfall is just a short 0.5 mile hike, though it can get quite steep (lots of stairs). After dark there is a lightshow that runs daily until midnight.

We parked and set out to the 108-foot waterfall. I tentatively made it across the suspension bridge over the Skagit River, announcing how I deserved a gold star for bravery – honestly, the bridge was probably the best suspension bridge I had crossed, as it wasn’t too wobbly or bouncy. But still, I was over water. Yikes! We stopped to read interpretive signs along the way, learning how JD Ross heated the ground so tropical garden could be planted and designed a lightshow.

Though you can just head to Ladder Creek Falls and back on the same trail, Janice and I took the small loop that wound through the old gardens and down to the Gorge Powerhouse, which has an exhibit area. Earlier in the trip I was talking about my recent visit to Bonneville Dam and trying to explain the massive turbo-like structures of the powerhouses, so I was excited Janice would be able to see inside a powerhouse!

Gorge Creek Falls just down the highway was our next stop. This waterfall cascades 242 feet down into Gorge Lake, and is viewed from the roadside. There is a short trail (less than a mile) that lends some views to Gorge Lake and Dam that we wandered.

Diablo Lake was our final big destination of the day. We had only driven past Diablo Lake the previous day (aside from stopping at the overlook), so we headed back so we could dip our toes into the lake.

Sightseeing complete, Janice and I set course west with a chore list for Marblemount – gas, ice, post office, and wilderness office (passport stamps). Since leaving Winthrop, this would be the most civilization we had seen in days. As I was refilling ice in the cooler (and after confusing the heck out of the post office employee when I asked him to hand cancel the postcards I was mailing), Janice proposed we eat out at the Upriver Grill. It is always nice when someone else can do the cooking for once!

Bellies full, we made quick stop at the wilderness office so I could get passport stamps, and then set out for the norther end of Baker Lake where we would spend two nights (our only multi-night camping site of the trip!). After a fun, curvy drive up Burpee Hill Road outside of Concrete, we headed north. Though the clouds were thick and low, Mount Baker (one of Washington’s five volcanoes) teased us with views, leading to my usual excited screaming that happens when I see a volcano.

Our home was campsite #2 at Shannon Creek Campground. The weather, which started out sunny in the morning, had turned cloudy with threatening rain, so we made hast in getting the tent set up before the rain started in for good. After getting camp set up , Janice and I headed down to the lakeshore. Originally a smaller body of water, Baker Lake is now a nine-mile long reservoir formed by the Upper Baker Dam.

We peeped the views a bit before heading back to settle into the tent with some new books and hot tea. The next day was predicted to be rainy and overcast, so we smartly put our rain gear in the tent so we could be prepared for conditions in the morning. Originally I had planned a hike up to Park Butte Lookout, but weather would have us pivoting to something lower in elevation and closer to camp. Nonetheless, there would be adventures to come!

Travel states, facts, & things with no context from Janice and I:

• ~75 miles and 2 hours-ish
• 1 NPS unit visited
  • Ross Lake National Recreation Area
    • Free
• To know a tree is to know a tree

Accommodations for the night:

• Shannon Creek Campground
  • Site #2
  • $34/night, $68 total for our stay (2024)
  • No cell service (Verizon)
  • The good:
    • Vault toilet across from site, and clean
    • Very close to the trailhead for the Baker River Trail
    • Lakeshore access!
  • The bad:
    • This site was not completely flat for a tent, and could feel a bit cramped
    • The sites down by the lakeshore are party central, and we saw a few campfires (when there was a fire ban). We were happy to be further away from the partying, though we were treated to hearing a generator run for over eight hours.
    • We couldn’t find a water source, so might be a dry campground.