Redemption on Mount Adams

2 years and 8 days after it all going wrong the first time, I jammed my ice axe into the summit of Mount Adams.

That above is the TLDR version… for those wanting more detail, here we go!

Mount Adams is one of five volcanoes in Washington, and is part of the greater Cascade Volcanic Arc system. Standing 12,273 feet tall, Mount Adams is the second tallest mountain in Washington after Mount Rainier, but is the biggest volcano in Washington by volume (it is a chonky one!). Only Mount Shasta in California beats it out in volume among the Cascade volcanoes. Back in 2021 or so when I decided bike racing was silly, and mountaineering would be a better silly hobby to take up, I put Mount Adams on my short list of climbs to do, as it is a bit of a beast, but the standard route does not involve glacier travel and the ropes that come with it. I actually had a crazy idea to do Mount Baker, Mount St. Helens, and Mount Adams in like a two week period, but I digress… Mount Adams… it has been one I’ve wanted to do!

After flying in at 7am and adventuring hard the day before (topped off by going to sleep in a pit flanked by gorgeous basalt columns with a view of Mount St. Helens), we arose pretty early to get a start on the drive down into Trout Lake, where Eric and I would restock at the general store and grab breakfast at the Station Cafe. We were not in a rush to get on the trail, which in a way will forever puzzle this Rocky Mountain girl where we have to be off summits well before noon in the summer due to storms and lightning… that’s not a thing in Washington, apparently. Weird.

After a bumpy journey up to the South Climb Trailhead, I was standing face to face with the mountain that has haunted me since 2022. We took our sweet time getting the final items loaded into packs, using the super clean vault toilets (not sarcasm… well stocked with toilet paper too!), and making reels of grinding coffee (Eric, not me). At 1:15pm we started up the trail. Mount Adams, round two underway!

At least this time we would be following the summer trail (South Spur Trail), though snow covered for most of it, giving a bit different scenery than in 2022 where the winter trail was used. I feel like the snow started about a mile or more later than in 2022, so we were able to make good time on dirt before hitting the snow. I advocated for climbing on the last two days before the “heat dome” set in, and patted myself on the back for this as the snow was supportive even in the afternoon sun as we meandered our way uphills for several hours.

After navigating a steep, but way less sketchy slope than everyone else was trying, to attain the ridge above Crescent Glacier, we dodged bergshrunds and other devious cracks before scrambling on loose volcanic rubble (gross). After just about 3.8 miles and 2736 feet of ascending, Eric found a great rock shelter on the plateau above the bowl Crescent Glacier, and called it a day.

The heavy packs were tossed aside and we took to setting up the tent and melting snow for the next day’s summit push. I was feeling a bit grouchy despite the Snickers attitude adjustment (time for dinner, clearly), and I when I discovered I had a few bars of cell service I wandered off in the lava to call my dad, where I promptly started crying and saying how I didn’t think I could make the summit. He gave me the pep talk I needed (I still posted on Facebook soliciting better hobby ideas than mountaineering from my friends), and I ate. Problem solved.

Understandably, I have residual trauma from the last time I tried to sleep on the side of Mount Adams, so it was a relief to slide into my sleeping bag and find myself nice and cozy (no shivering chills from a high fever!). I ventured out for a bathroom break as the sun was setting and enjoyed the shadow cast by Mount Adams before tucking myself in for the night with an Ambien and 4:30am alarm. Aside from occasional wind gusts stirring me away, I slept quite well (Eric unfortunately did not).

I was excited when the alarm went off. I had slept and I was ready to go do the damn thing! We were thirty minutes late getting out of camp than we wanted, but at 5:25am the crampons were strapped on and we began our upward ascent, dressed too warmly (of course). The sunrise provided another great mountain shadow opportunity, and the calm mountain morning was rejuvenating to my mind.

We took a couple of breaks as we wandered up through Lunch Counter, stripping off layers and refueling before the long push up the endless staircase that is Suksdorf Ridge. Here a group of three ladies caught us, and one commented on my Kula Cloth. I realized she looked familiar, and it turns out we follow each other on Instagram! For the rest of the summit adventure Hayley and her friends, Vanessa and Alissa, would be our climbing buddies which made the day that much better!

Eventually I found a solid boot pack, and it was one foot up in front of the other. I was feeling super good, unbothered by the elevation (I mean, I’d hope so?) and just so thankful I was doing the damn thing. (That was the day’s motto.) Overall we were taking the summit push very relaxed and slow, as there was no need to rush (still weird for my “below treeline before noon” mindset where I’ve had to do most Colorado 14ers with haste).

It was nice to crest the false summit of Pikers Peak, though an icy wind hit us with force. The broad walk over to the base of the actual summit (with some 600 feet to climb) allowed the achilles and calfs a break from the endless Stairmaster of the past hours. I really don’t mind false summits if I’m prepared for them, so I wasn’t heartbroken to see what I had left to climb – if anything it energized me as I realized I was probably going to actually summit the damn thing.

As we made the final push, Eric told me I could go ahead as he was riding a bit of the struggle bus (thanks, gluten) and hanging back with Hayley who was also not feeling the best. I felt myself slowing, but then reminded myself I was only at 12,200 or so feet, and I could move a lot faster. Motivation was found, and I crested the top of Mount Adams’ very flat summit plateau, not quite believing was there until I realized I was staring at Mount Rainer in the distance and there was no more “up” to be found on Mount Adams. I pulled out the topo map so I would ensure I would reach true summit and made a beeline for it as tears gently flowed (not the dramatic cry of Mount St. Helens this time, but still tears). I found the true summit at 10:40am and jammed the ice axe in it and sat down. It was done.

Mount Adams. July 4, 2024. Check!

I had the true summit to myself so I took some selfies, wiped the tears, and then dug in my pack for my down puffy and hardshell to cut the wind. I was trying to find a way to prop my phone up for a video when two ladies approached and asked if I wanted my photo taken so I had them take video instead of a summit cartwheel. Inspired, they asked for a video of cartwheels as well. Summit cartwheels are best shared! After about ten minutes, Eric joined me on the summit so I put him through all the annoying summit photos poses I insist on before descending off the summit slightly (out of the wind) to snack and prepare for the descent.

What goes up must come down, but thankfully Mount Adams has the best glissade in the United States. We stashed crampons and I donned my Scooty Booty for a butt slidin’ good time. I wish I took some photos of the deep glissade shoots, but I didn’t and I’m much too scared of losing my phone if I try to video my glissades, so it’ll just live in my imagination. But let’s just accept that the descent was a fraction of the hours upon hours spent going up hill! Strava said I was doing 10mph at one point!

Eric and I parted from our summit friends at Lunch Counter to head towards camp. The snow was softening significantly in the warm sun, and we still had to break camp. Overall, the summit push from camp to camp was 6.06 miles, with 4,229 feet of elevation gain, for a total overall time of 7 hours 40 minutes (seriously, we didn’t rush it at all).

I ate some Good-To-Go chicken pho to placate my growling stomach, and Eric and I both pounded Red Bulls before leaving camp with our much heavier packs. Eric was amazing and offered our leftover filtered water to climbers heading up the trail, who were thankful for some fresh, cold water. Hayley, Vanessa, and Alissa waved goodbye as they continued their ascent. Now it was time to get down the mountain!

As the snow turned to slush behind our feet, we kept our heads down and trudged on. We both agreed we were thankful the climb was over as it the high heat moving in would mine it would be unlikely the snow would refreeze, creating dishearteningly climbing conditions. We stopped a few times to chat with those climbing up, giving conditions reports and camp spot suggestions, but otherwise it was a quick pace as all we wanted were to take off mountaineering boots and to chug the cold Gatorades in the truck fridge. The hike out took 2 hours 27 minutes, arriving back at the truck just around 5pm.

Despite thirteen miles and almost 7000 feet of elevation gain (half of that done with a 30+-pound pack of which I was not accustomed to carrying), I didn’t feel too bad getting back to the truck. THE DAMN THING WAS DONE!! I made it!!! I MADE IT!!!

As we were driving down the road to find more adventures… I looked at Mount Hood and realized as much as I really don’t like mountaineering, I have volcanoes left to climb. More damn things!! 🙂