The Adventuring Heidi

This season I was not entirely successful in nabbing the exact wilderness camping permits I wanted in Rocky Mountain National Park, but I was successful in getting one of the hardest ones to get – Glacier Gorge!

As my first overnight backpack of the year, this would be a great way to get weight on my back and my body use to camping away from the luxuries that car camping provides. I scored a single night for July 29-30. The hike in from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead is just under three miles if the special, secret short cut trail is taken and 1000 feet of elevation gain (plan on 3.8 miles if the standard trail that goes by Alberta Falls is taken with less elevation gain), and is a great beginner backpacking option.

We didn’t get a super early start, arriving at the Wilderness Office around 8:50am to pick up our permit, and then we got in the entrance line. Having a wilderness permit means no timed entry reservation was needed, but it did mean waiting in the entrance station line for awhile. Since it was later in the morning, the park and ride shuttle lot was the parking option – a little awkward with large packs but we made it work.

At 10:10am we started up the trail, taking a bypass trail to cut out Alberta Falls and the mass of people found along that route. The shade was much appreciated since it was one hot weekend as I struggled uphill under my load, realizing I really need to dial down my pack weight and silly items I sometimes bring along.

The last time I had been to Mills Lake it was a snow-filled December day, so I enjoyed the summertime view, and also finally going beyond that lake. We took a small break to snack and glimpse at climbers on the Trough of Longs Peak through binoculars before continuing past Jewel Lake and onward.

The Glacier Gorge campsite is marked with a sign, and there is a wooden log bridge for crossing Glacier Creek. From there it was a short, but steep, climb up to the campsite, which had a roomy tent pad area and a few sitting logs. Water was filtered, beers secured in the creek to cool down, and tent set up. The weather was clouding up, so we were unsure if it would rain so we took our time just sitting around camp and eating lunch, which were peanut butter, honey, and bacon sandwiches (might be a new fave for me!).

Finally we decided to chance the weather and continue up Glacier Gorge. The trail, though still established, became narrower and rockier as we made our way up to Black Lake. Thanks to the crazy wet summer, the trail was lush with vegetation and wildflowers, despite it being the end of July. There was one other hiker who we chatted with briefly, and then we literally had Black Lake and beyond completely to ourselves! Even better, after a few sprinkles, the sky cleared off.

We decided to ascend the primitive, unmaintained trail higher up. Originally I had planned to hike to Frozen, Green, Italy, and Blue Lakes, but we were feeling a bit fatigued and had not planned on drinking as much water as we did. I was satisfied with getting some great views of Longs Peak and Keyboard of the Winds. Just means I have to come back, right?

It was quick work heading back towards camp, and we were treated with getting to observed for quite some time a large herd of elk.

Back in camp, some Peak Refuel chicken pesto pasta was cooked up, beers drank, conversation had, and it was early to bed after a rather hot and tiring day. I’d like to claim I slept well with the roar of Glacier Creek, but it was a restless night fighting my sleeping pad – these things happen I suppose!

The next morning we took our time waking up (well, not me, I was awake at 6am and just hung out in my sleeping bag reading) and making breakfast before tearing down camp. (Side note, I can’t do freeze fried eggs, they gross me out.) Once the sun crested the mountains, the heat was on, feeling a bit sweltering at times. About 10:15am we hit the trail for the fast hike back to the Glacier Gorge Trailhead and shuttle back to the car.

Though the hiking plans had changed a bit, I still loved this little weekend getting away from town and into a stunningly beautiful place! I really never visit the Bear Lake Corridor much in the summer months due to the restrictive timed entry reservations and the overwhelming hoards of people, but this was worth it, especially since not many venture beyond Mills Lake. I could see myself returning to this campsite, though really there are so many other places to explore in the park as well.

Details:
Date Hiked: July 29-30, 2023
Trailhead: Glacier Gorge
Wilderness Campsite: Glacier Gorge (#39)
Total Mileage: 10.85 miles total for the weekend (Garmin Forerunner 255s/Strava)
Elevation Gain: 2,382 feet total for the weekend
Time to reach camp: 1 hour 42 minutes
Time back to trailhead from camp: 1 hour 10 minutes
Weather: Sunny and HOT
Cell Service: None at campsite (Verizon)
Special Considerations:

• Located within Rocky Mountain National Park.
  • Wilderness camping permits are required, and go on sale March 1st at 8am. This campsite is insanely popular and will sell out the whole season within minutes. As of 2023, the fee was $36 for the reservation.
  • Entrance fee is also applicable to enter the park, which is $30 in 2023 (America the Beautiful annual passes accepted).
  • No timed entry reservation is needed with a wilderness camping permit.
• For the campsite itself:
  • Not be confused with Glacier Basin Campground, one of the established car camping campgrounds in Rocky Mountain National Park… no driving to this one!
  • Located up a heavily trafficked trail 3.8 miles from the trailhead. I think this makes this a great introductory backpacking route!
  • No fires are allowed and stoves must have an on/off switch
  • All solid human waste must be packed out (yes, that means poop). WAG bags can be purchased cheaply at outdoor stores such as Jax and REI.
  • Bear canisters are required at all wilderness campsites and must be kept closed and stored 70 adult steps away from your tent.
  • Glacier Creek is located by campsite for a water source, but treat/filter/boil all water for safe consumption.
  • The campsite is located a smidge over 10,000 feet in elevation.

Learn all about Rocky Mountain National Park wilderness camping permits and campsites here!